Walking the Overland Track in Autumn snow

On the country of the Big River and Northern Aboriginal Nations

It had been 14 years since I had walked the Overland Track with friends over a fine week in April. My son, now aged 9, was ready to embark on his own bushwalking adventures. It was time for a pilgrimage to Tasmania.

This, my second journey on the Overland Track, was markedly different to my previous walk. Both times I walked in Autumn, when the fagus is turning (Nothofagus gunnii – a deciduous beech tree endemic to Tasmania). My first walk was blessed with fine weather and abundant views of the mountains almost the whole way. We waded in lakes, scaled Cradle Mountain and wonderful Mount Oakleigh, and ventured into Pine Valley and the Labyrinth.

This time around we faced snow – deep snow – rain, wind and tracks that became water courses. We saw few mountain vistas, but we noticed the smaller details. The yellow fungi between pebbles, the coloured patterns adorning the bark of the twisted snow gums, and tracks made by wallabies and currawongs on otherwise undisturbed powdery white snow. As walking companions, we had to grow more in tune to one another’s physical and emotional needs as the weather became more inclement – recognising when to push on, when to stop, when to cheer ourselves with a laugh or song, and when we needed to vent with a cry or curse at the icy wind.

Yes, thousands of people walk the Overland Track each year. Yes, socials are swamped with pictures, and facebook groups and blogs full of accounts of what to expect, what to pack and the best time to walk. But every person who takes on this walk has their own unique experience. Almost all will be touched by the beauty, enjoy the remoteness, and share the camaraderie of their fellow walkers. Many will hope to return some day for another journey, and another unique experience.

This was ours.

Day 0: At Cradle Mountain

We awoke in the dark, our track transport bus pulling up beside our Launceston hostel as the first signs of daylight broke. Our driver, also one of the Overland Track hut wardens, chatted to us about what to expect as we made our way to Cradle, via a stop at Sheffield for a coffee and lamington break.

At Cradle Mountain, our bus companions headed to the visitors centre for their briefing before commencing walk. We had opted for a day at Cradle Mountain so we could do some day walks and then get an early start for the first day of the track. We set up our tent at ‘the disco’ (Discovery Park – convenientlylocated oppositethe visitors centre), before heading out to walk around Dove Lake.

The Dove Lake circuit is a delightful 6 km walk. Since the Overland Track follows the ridge from Ronny Creek, you only see Dove Lake from above when walking the Overland Track. The Dove Lake circuit provides those water level views, including the famous view of Cradle Mountain with the boat shed in the foreground. We were blessed with blue skies, clear water and the russet colours of fagus leaves, with Cradle Mountain standing proudly above the u-shaped glacial valley.

Alas, the forecast indicated that this glorious weather would be short-lived.The short video played at the safety briefing on the dangers of hypothermia (beware the stumbles, mumbles and grumbles) was very relevant to the conditions we were likely to expect on the Overland Track.

To finish our pleasant day, we decided to do the after dark tour at Devils@Cradle. An excellent tour, as the devils and quolls are so much more active at this time. We learnt a lot from the knowledgeable keepers, as we watched young devils cavort and eastern and spotted tailed quolls eagerly await their dinner. We were, however, quite cold by the end of the 1.5 hour tour, and welcomed the warm log fire back at the camp kitchen. We ate our sausages and relished our last warm shower for many days.

Day 1: Ronny Creek to Waterfall Valley Hut

10.7 km

A nippy start to the day as we emerged from our tent, excitement building as we packed. We didn’t quite manage the very first bus of the morning, but were at the trailhead at Ronny Creek by 9.30am. The famous Ronny Creek wombat was spotted nearby, nestled behind some buttongrass.

Our packs were heavy. We walked along the boardwalk, past groves of pandini, and Crater Falls with lots of water flowing. We paused for morning tea by the boat shed at Crater Lake, one of my favourite spots at Cradle. The weather was still good, though the skies were grey compared to the previous day.

We continued up to Marions Lookout – the place where my son, then aged 6, had watched wide-eyed, as a group of teenagers and dads dropped their capacious packs and whizzed up their Jetboil stove to make some lunch on their first day on the Overland. Now it was his turn to gratefully relieve the ache on his shoulders for a few minutes while we surveyed the views.

We shouldered our packs again and climbed the 407 steps to the next lookout (yes, we counted – it was one of the activities in the kids’ OT booklet). A kind man offered to take my son’s pack when we reached the section with chains, but my little champ was happy to step up to the challenge. Then it was onwards towards Cradle Mountain, no longer visible as the mist was closing in.

Now in the exposed alpine air, we walked past delicate cushion plants and tarns. Mist swirled and the wind became increasingly severe. We were most relieved to reach Kitchen Hut (emergency shelter) and join a few others sheltering out of the wind for lunch.

Not seeing Cradle Mountain, we noticed all the hardy little plants that survive and thrive in this harsh environment. The colours made more vibrant by the moisture in the air. The track passed through bushy alpine heath, rocky and muddy ground. We saw partial views of Cradle Mountain’s spires through the mist at times. Occasionally the mist lifted briefly and views of a plateau emerged for a moment.

It was tough going along the final ridge before the descent to Waterfall Valley. We struggled to maintain balance, teetering along the boardwalk, fighting against strong gusts of wind.

The final descent was tough for Jason. By this stage his feet and shoulders were feeling quite sore. I was cold, wanting to push on to the warmth of a hut, but we needed to stop and rest. Finally the hut came into view – it was a new hut, only recently completed. It has a selection of bunk rooms, pleasant living quarters and a balcony to sit and enjoy the sun setting over Barn Bluff (at least, that’s what one might do if you could see Barn Bluff and were not freezing).

For dinner we enjoyed entrée of cuppa soup, burritos for our main, followed by apple crumble for dessert.

Day 2: Waterfall Valley to Windermere

7.8 km + 3 km side trip to Lake Will

Waking at dawn, I went and sat on the helipad to watch the mist over Barn Bluff, faint colours of sunrise in the clouds to the east. I love those peaceful moments, before the stir of activity, when you can feel the cool wind on your face and listen, uninterrupted to the day awakening.

With a relatively short distance to cover, we didn’t need to rush. Most of our fellow walkers had departed as we checked out the old hut nearby before shouldering our packs for the day. About 30 minutes into our walk the Westpac rescue helicopter circled around to land at the hut to evacuate one of the walkers who had badly twisted an ankle the day before.

We walked along rocky paths with lots of interesting conglomerate, and searched in vain for a fossil that was mentioned in the kids OT activity book. The weather was misty, though we were granted the occasional view into the distance.

During the day the weather progressed from cool and misty, to drizzly, then rainy, then wind, sleet and finally a few flurries of snow. We dropped our packs for the side trip to Lake Will, with the rain increasingly drumming on our rain jackets. Lake Will was being whipped by the wind, with waves lapping on the sandy shore. It was not a day to linger or explore further afield. We ate a snack, then pushed on with a view to having a late lunch once we reached the hut.

There is a rocky escarpment overlooking Windermere. It would be a wonderful view from here on a fine day, but for us this was when the proper snow began to fall. Fingers crossed that the hut was not too far away, we descended, passed the lake and followed boardwalk through grassy flats and snow gums until we reached the hut around 2.30pm.

We enjoyed lunch and a cuppa as we warmed up, spending the remainder of the day at leisure. We ventured out to the lake edge during a short break in the weather, though it was rather cold and gloomy, so we did not linger too long.

The hut ranger brought news that snow was forecast, and an official bushwalkers warning had been issued. It is fair to say that there was some nervousness amongst the hut’s inhabitants as to what tomorrow would bring.

Our dinner menu was soup, followed by laksa, and banana and nut rice pudding for dessert.

Day 3: Windermere to Pelion Hut

16.8 km

At 5 am the hut was stirring. With a big day and snow forecast, everyone was planning an early start. Outside the hut a winter wonderland had appeared, with thick snow blanketing the hut, ground and the trees. We were packed and out the door by 7.30 am, which is a very early start by our standards.

The morning walk was quite pleasant. We traipsed through snow, marvelling at the beauty, with fresh flurries coming and going, but the wind mostly gentle.

At the junction to Forth Valley Lookout undisturbed powder white snow led out into the mist, bypassed by all our fellow walkers. We couldn’t resist that delight of making the first footprints on the fresh snow. As a reward for our minor detour, the clouds cleared slightly to reveal the valley below. We made snow people to oversee the view and bring joy to any others who happened to venture there.

As the day progressed, the weather became colder. Our breaks had to be short and often, to provide time to rest but not freeze (being very mindfulof the stumbles, mumbles and grumbles). We were very exposed, and looking forward to getting out of the wind.

The second half of the day was tough. Though we had a reprieve from being out in the open, the forest was never ending, and the path was a torrent of water and mud. Where there was boadwalk, the planks had become slippery as the snow melted and was compacted to ice. The main positive was seeing lots of pretty moss and fungi during this tough slog.

The waterfall at Forth Creek had so much water tumbling down. At Frog Flats we were granted a small glimpse of a nearby mountain, which I think was Paddy’s Nut.

Then it was an uphill climb. Onwards and onwards through more forest. At one point we could see Mt Oakleigh and Pelion Plains and I reassured Jason that it was “not long now’. However, this final section just seemed to take forever, frustratingly skirting the edges of Pelion Plains but never providing a clear line of sight to the hut to gauge just how far away we were.

Jason really struggled in the final hour of the walk. There were tears, and hiking poles were flung down in frustration on the veranda of the hut. But warm clothes, a heater, and a cup of soup and soon he was in good spirits again. He even asked me if we would be doing any side trips the next day. I took this as a sign that he had recovered and was not thinking about whether the Westpac helicopter could be convinced to ferry us away.

After dinner of mac n cheese, followed by choc orange pudding, I sat on the veranda, rugged up in my down jacket against the cold. I marvelled at the sight of Mt Oakleigh dusted in snow as the light faded on another day.

Day 4: Pelion hut to Kia Ora hut

8km

Replenished, we awoke to snow and a majestic view of Mt Oakleigh across the plains. Distinctive corrugated ‘Aussie icicles’ hung from the hut’s roof.

After breakfast, as other hikers packed and hit the trail for the day, we headed to nearby fossil creek. We found many little fossils of leaves and other fascinating patterns in the rocks.

After our fossil excursion, it was time to set off once more – quite a late start at 10.45am. The track went through forest, with mud and snow and a number of tree roots to contend with. The climb up to Pelion gap in the deep snow was slow going and pretty tough for Jason. I had to really push him on over the last section so we could lunch at Pelion Gap.

Thick snow blanketed the ground, more snow was falling and the wind was a bit chilly, but lunch was good. As we perched on snow-covered logs, the snow stopped and a patch or two of sun appeared. Our spirits improved and it was time for play. We made a snowman, threw snowballs and lay on the ground making snow angels. We were blessed with views of Mt Pelion East, three wedge tailed eagles soaring overhead.

The walk from Pelion Gap was absolutely lovely. The snow was over knee deep in places, and formed little furrows and mounds over the buttongrass that lay buried beneath. The vistas of Cathedral Range in the distance delighted. Jason motivated us with a song about being yourself and being awesome.

At around 4pm I said we needed to motor, thinking we may still have another hour or so to walk. Shortly afterwards we spied the hut, and were thoroughly thrilled as we crossed a little bridge and entered the cosy hut to greet our fellow walkers.

Dinner was butter tofu curry with rice, followed by fruit cobbler.

Day 5: Kia Ora to Bert Nichols Hut (Windy Ridge)

9 km + 2.5 km side trips to waterfalls

The highlight of this day was waterfalls. The thundering power of nature more evident than ever after all the rain and snow melt.

The day started with forests, as we climbed uphill to Du Cane Hut, built in 1910 and the oldest hut in the park. Having the luxury of shelter for our morning tea, we decided to fire up the stove and have a cuppa. Outside Jason built another snowman to greet passers by.

More forest walking to the junction to D’Alton and Fergusson Falls. We soon discovered that if we wanted to see D’Alton Falls, it would require fording the tributary stream just after the junction. Adding further water to our already sodden boots was definitely worth it.

We lunched by Fergusson Falls, sitting close enough to feel the spray on our faces.

Another half an hour on the track and we reached the turn off to Hartnett Falls. The trees were less dense here and we could see mountains. We followed the track down to below the falls. This also required fording as the river was so high after all the rain and snow. Beautiful falls, with the sun illuminating rainbows across the Mersey River. It would be nice to linger here on a summers day, but alas, we had to push on.

Once back on the main track, we climbed to Du Cane gap. This took us a lot longer than expected, and we were relieved to finally see the wooden sign marking the high point. As we gladly ate a few squares of nourishing chocolate, we noticed a stand of yellow snow gums standing proudly nearby. The last leaves of fagus also littering the snow covered ground.

It was snowing now and the sun was getting low. We traipsed downhill through mud and tree roots. Head torches had to be retrieved from our packs, as the forest was becoming very dark, and the many tree roots were potentially treacherous for our tired feet.

At last we reached the hut – big and luxurious and full of our fellow companions chatting and playing cards. The sleeping quarters were quite cold and many of our fellow walkers opted to spread out on the floor of the dining hall where there is a heater. This is why a good quality winter-rated sleeping bag is a must, whether you plan on sleeping in tents or huts.

Our waterfall day was a good day, despite copious mud, puddles and soggy sludge. During our walk we spotted a pink robin flitting about, as well as many varieties of fungi.

For dinner we replenished our energy with spaghetti Bolognese and apple crumble.

Day 6: Windy Ridge to Echo Point

15.5km

A long day, but relatively easy because the walking was mostly downhill. There was still snow around, despite the lower altitude. The weather continued to drizzle, rain and snow on and off during the day. The sun did grace us with its presence for a little while in the afternoon.

The forest was less dense, and there were lots of nice streams at which to pause. An old mining race an interesting remnant of the history of this place.

We lunched by Narcissus River, shortly after crossing the suspension bridge. It was a very peaceful spot, with the wide river flowing briskly past.

About five minutes after lunch we arrived at Narcissus hut to find fellow walkers talking on phones, a reminder that we were almost at the end of our wilderness sojourn. Though it was nice to see everyone again, I was rather pleased that we had lunched in solitude. We wandered down to the jetty, a rainbow overhead, and looked around at the snow dappled mountains surrounding Leeawuleena/ Lake St Clair.

We bid our fellow hikers goodbye as they awaited their transport on the ferry, and headed off towards Echo Point. First we tramped through buttongrass, where many of the duckboards were under water, then through thick, mossy forests. Big eucalyptus regnans towered above – we gave one a hug. We also spied lots more fungi to add to our growing collection of fungi photos (an interested sparked by CSIRO’s regular #FungiFriday posts.)

We arrived at the hut just after 5pm, and it was very dark in the forest. The hut is rustic and full of rodents, but Echo Point is a lovely spot that is well worth the extra walk.

Our final dinner of the walk was 2 minute spicy noodles, pimped up with some tofu and veg, followed by fruit cobbler.

Day 7: Echo Point to Cynthia Bay

11 km

We had an early start, waking when the stars were still out, and pausing to relish the silhouette of Mt Ida and listen to the gentle waves of Leeawuleena. As I packed, Jason sat on the jetty and spotted a platypus swimming past.

We walked promptly as one does when there is a deadline to meet, and the prospect of a treat from the cafe. There were less tree roots in this section, though still some tricky spots and plenty of mud puddles, but we made good time. Huge eucalypts, mossy rainforest, man-ferns, fungi and green rosellas were abundant.

We were the first walkers on the track for the day, attested by the odd spider web across the face as we walked through the peaceful forest. After a while, two of our fellow walkers caught up to us and we chatted before bidding each other farewell.

We stopped at various spots along the lake edge. The crystal clear water looked so inviting. Jason took off his boots but found the water was almost too icy to even dip in a toe.

Closer to Cynthia Bay the vegetation changed from rainforest to drier eucalypt forest and smaller plants. At Watersmeet, where the Cuvier and Hugel rivers converge, we began to see the signs of civilisation with wider paths and signs for day-walkers. We motored on, reaching the Visitors Centre by noon.

Our 80km walk now complete, we signed into the log book and took a shower. We still had food supplies, so we lunched on the jetty, taking a final photo or two, before retiring to the café for hot drinks and cake.

As we sat outside in the sun (yes, sun!), we watched as other groups came in. Some by the path we had followed, others from the direction of the jetty – it was like the finish line for ‘the Amazing Race’.

A few souvenirs purchased, and then it was time to board our bus and return to Launceston, via a scenic drive over the central plateau, with a brief stop at the Great Lake in Miena. Our hotel in Launceston, a comfy bed, some television, pizza and a call home to speak to the rest of the family.

As I finalise this post, almost a year later, I am still filled with happiness from our special and snowy journey. I plan to walk the Overland Track again in a few years when my youngest child is ready. It’s just that sort of place. You can return again and again and never tire of its beauty, and each time experience something new.

For more information:

About the Overland Track and to book:

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/cradle-mountain/overland-track

Transport operators (can also help with gear hire and fuel for the walk):

Overland Track Transport https://www.overlandtracktransport.com.au/

Tasmanian Wilderness Experiences https://www.twe.travel/

Cradle Mountain Coaches https://www.cradlemountaincoaches.com.au/

Accommodation at Cradle Mountain: As well as a few hotels, the Discovery Park has campsites, cabins and dorm rooms.

https://www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au/caravan-parks/tasmania/cradle-mountain-cradle-mountain

Another option is to book the rustic Waldheim cabins, located inside the park, so you don’t need to get a shuttle bus and can start the walk super early should you wish.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/cradle-mountain/cradle-mountain-waldheim-cabins

Devils@cradle: https://devilsatcradle.com/

Guided walks: There are a few options, but if you have the ability, walk independently. If I was looking at shelling out my hard earned on a guided tour for the Overland Track, I’d go with Cam Blake Photography. These tours camp (not glamp), and you get tips on the best spots for photos. https://www.camblakephotography.com.au/

Donate to the Westpac rescue helicopter: https://www.westpacrescuetas.com.au/