The Three Capes Track – Is it worth the price?

(Plus an option for hikers on a tight budget)

Palawa country

The Three Capes Track on the Tasman Peninsula promises spectacular costal scenery, well-appointed huts, a visit to Port Arthur and boat ride with Pennicott Wilderness Journeys all as part of a 4-day hike that is within the reach of most people with a reasonable level of fitness.

At $495 per adult and $396 per child, it has faced some criticism since opening in 2015 as pricing out budget conscious travellers, and particularly families. Now, I’m a frugal person and admit that the price did put me off, particularly if I was planning to take all three of my children. However, I’ve had the Three Capes on my bucket list since it was under construction, and after the year that was 2020, took some much needed time out for a Tassie adventure with my 9 year old son.

So, was it worth it? Yes.

Would I pay to take the whole family? Yes, though there are some other bucket list hikes in Tassie, so I’ve got a few options on the cards for next time.

Here’s my take on why Three Capes Track is worth shelling out your hard earned coin.

1. The scenery is as spectacular as the brochures

Dolerite columns towering up to 300 metres above the ocean. Sea mist caressing the cliffs. Micro climates with ‘cloud forests’, fungi and wildflowers.

The prospect of glimpsing a whale on its migratory path.

The vertigo inducing climb (optional) up to ‘the Blade’ on Day 3. Looking straight down 300m sheer cliffs to the climbing mecca ‘the Totem Pole’ from Cape Hauy on Day 4.

Pictures paint a pretty awesome scene, but it can never replace seeing and experiencing these places yourself.

The walks to Cape Pillar and Cape Hauy on days 3 and 4 are the postcard heroes. However, for me Day 1 was special because you spend time down at sea level, exploring the rock pools. We lingered on the rounded rocks at Surveyors Cove to watch the sunset. In summer you could also enjoy a refreshing dip.

Day 2 was also a favourite, as we had perfect weather for the climb up Arthurs Peak and enjoyed stunning views out towards Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar and Tasman Island. You won’t meet any independent hikers on day 1 and 2 and there’s no backtracking, so these days give you a chance to soak up the serenity and tune into nature.

2. The walk is within the reach of most people

As you are staying in huts with mattresses, stoves and cooking pans provided, you don’t need some of the more bulky items usually required for overnight hikes. A lighter pack makes this a great walk for people who haven’t done any overnight hiking and children.

The track is also well benched, so there’s no tripping over roots and trudging through mud like other Tassie hikes. As our boat guide said: “it’s a $20 million track, so if you find yourself following a goat track, you’ve gone wrong”. A few caveats – there are a lot of stairs, especially on Day 4, and the rocky paths are tough on feet, ankles, knees and boots (my son’s shoes were a testament to why you should invest in good quality hiking boots). Also, there are lots of cliffs, and Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service has deliberately not erected man-made barriers, but used natural barriers such as rocks and vegetation to keep walkers back from the edge while retaining the natural beauty of the place. Those walking with kids need to be vigilant.

There are plenty of walks for hard core hikers. I love that the Three Capes Track makes hiking accessible to many. It may be just the thing to give people the ‘hiking bug’ or engender a love of nature and adventure in our children. In our group, we had a man in his 70’s walking with his daughter, and a family of six, all four children younger than my son. There are also options if the longer days are too much – you can decide not to go all the way to the end of Cape Pillar or to Cape Hauy. There are still some great views to be had.

3. The ‘encounter’ stops are artistic and a great way to learn more about the history and environment of the region

When you check in, you get an information booklet with maps and relevant information for each day. It also contains ‘encounters’, which are stories and information that correspond to stops along the track, usually where there is an interesting sculptured seat, tastefully themed to match the surrounds.

The encounter stops are a lot of fun for kids and the seats are really well designed (I believe by design students). Whether you stop at each one to read about it, use it for a photo opportunity or just take them in as you pass, they add an additional element of intrigue to the walk.

I really love this sort of ‘on country’ learning, where you learn about what you are seeing and experiencing. My son found the encounter stops an opportunity for playfulness. We have some great photos of being blown away by the wind at ‘windswept’, hands up in fright at ‘my blood runs cold’, and riding on a millipede at ‘blood on the velvet lounge’.

4. The price includes Port Arthur entry and a boat ride

Your Three Capes adventure begins from Port Arthur. This sombre yet fascinating place is a big draw card for those touring the Tasman Peninsula and I’d highly recommend allowing an extra day to explore either before or after the walk if you’ve never been before.

The walk itself actually starts from Denmans Cove, and the only way to get there is by boat. Pennicott Wilderness Journeys charter the groups to Denmans Cove, but it is more than just a shuttle straight to the start of the walk. The one hour boat ride takes you past the Isle of the Dead and Boys Prison at Port Arthur, then passes along sea cliffs where birds like cormorants nestle above sea caves. It then goes out into more open waters where you see the sand dunes of Crescent Bay and Cape Raoul to the west, and Cape Pillar and Tasman Island to the east. Lucky groups may spot dolphins or whales. With the sea breeze in your hair and the jolt of the boat cruising over the waves, this is the perfect way to perk your sense of adventure.

Oh, and you may have to take your boots off and wade to shore to start the walk, depending on the tide. How refreshing!

*Pennicott Wilderness Journeys boat ride*

5. You get some luxury and pay a lot less than the fully guided walking groups

An even more glam option is to do the Three Capes Track as part of a commercial tour group, but you will pay a lot more for the privilege. Now, I can’t comment on whether staying in even more luxurious huts and a glass of wine justifies the extra dosh, but in my opinion the non-guided walkers get a pretty good deal for the following reasons.

Lux huts – these are not basic backcountry huts that only provide shelter. The huts have been designed to enhance your experience of the area, with big verandas and seating inside and outside to either enjoy the camaraderie of the group or seek some solace contemplating the natural surrounds.
There are separate sleeping quarters, which sleep between four and eight people in each room. Bunks are pre-arranged by the rangers, keeping groups together, so there’s no rush to secure your bunk for the night.
The mattresses are super comfy. (Just remember to pack ear plugs if you’re the sort of person who is bothered by snoring, because you will hear your fellow hikers in your room and the adjacent rooms).
The living areas have a selection of books and games to while away the time (great for the kids!)
Yoga mats and foam rollers are also provided at each hut, to stretch out the weary legs and get your zen on.
There is an outdoor shower at hut 2 if you feel the need for some cleansing.
There is a hut ranger stationed at each hut, who gives a nightly briefing on what you need to know for the next day, weather updates and interesting facts about the area’s history, flora and fauna.

6. You will take away your own unique and priceless memories

At the end of the day, we go travelling, hiking and adventuring to see new places, experience new things and create our own memories. On the Three Capes Track you will be awed by Mother Nature, meet interesting people from all walks of life, and feel proud, knowing you have conquered 48km and almost a million stairs in a special part of Australia’s Apple Isle.

The low down:

Total distance: 48km, 4 days

Day 1: Check in at Port Arthur, boat ride to Denmans Cove. Walk to Surveyors Hut. 4 kms, approx. 1-2 hours. Don’t rush.

Day 2: Surveyors Hut to Munro Hut. 11 kms, approx. 4-5 hours. Don’t rush. Enjoy the view of Arthurs Peak. If you have time you can also walk down to Wughalee Falls, but note that the track gets a bit sketchy and the ‘falls’ may not be flowing unless there’s been recent rain. If you start heading uphill, stop, because you’ve gone too far. One fellow hiker had a detour all the way to Retakunna (the hut for night 3) by following this track!

Day 3: Munro Hut to Cape Pillar and return (with light day packs only!), then on to Retakunna Hut. 19 kms, approx. 6-7 hours. It’s a longer day than you might expect, but take your time and soak up the views. There’s lots of fun ‘encounters’ along this part.

Day 4: Retakunna Hut to Fortescue Bay via Cape Huay. 14 kms, approx. 6-7 hours. Get up early and get going so you don’t need to rush unnecessarily to make your bus. This is the day with a million stairs out to Cape Hauy (OK, I am exaggerating, but there really are a lot!). The climb up Mt Fortescue in the morning shouldn’t be underestimated (especially for those walking with kids), but is super rewarding going through rainforest with heaps of cool fungi to spot. If you have extra time at the end of the walk, I recommend a ‘Tassie coldie’ (swim). Invigorating!

Tip 1: The first hut has a barbeque – steak, bacon or grilled vegies is an option!

Tip 2: If you can, try to avoid finishing the walk on the weekend. Cape Hauy is also a popular day hike, so expect to pass lots of fresh looking faces zipping over the millions of steps if you’re there on a weekend or holiday period.

Getting there: The boat to Denmans Cove and bus from Fortescue Bay back to Port Arthur are included in the cost of the walk. However, you need to make your own arrangements to get to Port Arthur. If you don’t have your own transport there are regular tourist buses from Hobart. We caught the local Tassielink commuter bus on the way, which is a fair bit cheaper than the tour buses, but timing may be less convenient since there’s only one service each day, coinciding with school hours. The driver kindly stopped at the entrance to where we were staying (see below), but otherwise stops at the Port Arthur general store, so you will have to walk a small way on to Port Arthur. On the return we took the tour bus option

Accommodation: There’s a few accommodation options near Port Arthur, including a motel right on site. We stayed at Port Arthur Holiday Park the night before starting the hike. It’s a great park in a pleasant bush setting, with heaps of options from camping, dorm-style rooms and cabins, and amenities including camp kitchen and playground. You do need to be a bit organised for self-catering if you don’t have own transport, because the park is fairly isolated. In the morning we walked via a pleasant track along the bay, then up along the highway past the General Store to Port Arthur.

Port Arthur: Entry to Port Arthur is included in the cost of the Three Capes Track, and gives you up to 2 days access, valid for 12 months. As I said above, I highly recommend allowing some time to explore (you are paying for it after all). My son and I had both been there before, but still wanted time to check it out again. We opted for the latest departure for the boat ride, which gave us the morning at Port Arthur. However, some of this time does get eaten up with checking in for the hike.

Gear storage: You can store gear you don’t need for the hike when you check in at Port Arthur.

Can you hike the Three Capes Track without staying in the huts?

Yes and no. You can’t do the full Three Capes walk, as the track from Denmans Cove to the Junction is reserved for Three Capes walkers. However, there is an option to do the 3 day Cape Pillar circuit and camp at either Bare Knoll or Wughalee Falls campgrounds.

Day 1: Start at Fortescue Bay campground and walk through forest to the Junction, then on to either Bare Knoll campground or Wughalee Falls campground. Bare Knoll is the best option, as it is drier and has tent platforms, a toilet and water tank. Wughalee Falls can be quite damp (no tent platforms), but could be quiet option if you really want to avoid crowds. Approx 9 km, 3-4 hours.

Day 2: Leave your tent and heavy packs at the campsite, and head out to Cape Pillar for the day. 16km, 6-7 hours.

Day 3: This will be a long day, bearing in mind you have to pack up camp in the morning. Return to the Junction, then turn East. The walk goes over Mt Fortescue and on to Cape Hauy (you can leave your pack at the turn-off to the Cape), then back to Fortescue Bay. 17km, 6-8 hours.

Camping is also available at Fortescue Bay. Those with transport could also head back past Port Arthur do the separate walk out to Cape Raoul, so technically you could actually walk all Three Capes, when the official walk only takes you out to two at the moment.