We recently spent a glorious month on a family road trip around Lutruwita (Tasmania). As many people do, I fell in love with this delightful island state and just keep coming back. This visit was a chance to take some of the roads less travelled, relax and unwind. The west was calling, and that was where we spent the first part of our trip. Here’s a taste of why I came home feeling deeply happy, calm and inspired.
Leven Canyon
Our first port of call after arriving in Devonport was Leven Canyon. A pleasant drive through lush agricultural regions (seriously, the rich colour of the soil down here makes this farmer’s daughter smile). There are two lookouts over the canyon, which can be walked as a circuit. While there’s a reasonable amount of stairs, the walk is suitable for most people and families. Far below, the river has carved rounded pools in the rocks. Our eyes followed the river as it snaked between verdant mountain ranges and off in to the distance.
Driving a little further down the road, we came to the canyon floor walk. The first section of this walk is easy, heading downhill to a bridge over the river. The water cascades over rocks, the carved-out pools testament to the power of the water. Beyond this point the track becomes a bit sketchier, with some clambering over tree roots and rock ledges required. We took the kids along this section, following the river through the gorge to Devil’s Elbow, where the river takes a sharp bend.
A detour via Preston Falls on the drive to Leven Canyon is also worthwhile. A 10 minute walk leads to a view of a small waterfall tumbling over a rounded escarpment.
Accommodation: We stayed at Wynyard, but there are many options in the north.
Dip Falls and ‘The Big Tree’
When we visited Tasmania for the first time over 15 years ago, Dip Falls was afforded a single line in our guide book indicating that ‘if you had a bit of time, you could take a detour to see these falls’. Wow! Dip Falls could probably claim to be up there in the list of the state’s top waterfalls, and they are now better promoted. What I love about Dip Falls is the hexagonal basalt columns, which can be viewed from beside and below the waterfall, as well as a birds-eye view from the upper lookout. Even if there isn’t much water flowing (as on our visit), this waterfall is pretty spectacular. The water spreads like lightning over the columns, as it snakes down the two tiers to the cool forest below.
Nearby, a short walk to ‘The Big Tree’ takes you to a stringybark that stands majestically high and rotund in girth. Give it a hug – you’ll need more than 10 or more people to reach all the way around it.
Because we like to pack a lot into our days, after visiting Dip Falls we then drove to the western end of Rocky Cape National Park. Here we did a few short walks and spent the afternoon playing on the beach among orange lichen-encrusted rocks. A delightful spot to while away the time and feel the sea breeze in our hair.
Accommodation: Smithton – it’s one of the main towns in the area to stock up on supplies before heading further west.
We didn’t visit Stanley on this particular trip as we’ve been there a few times on previous trips. Stanley is a lovely town, with beautiful historic houses, B&Bs, tea rooms and the like. It’s settled beneath the Nut, and a steep walk or pleasant ride in a chairlift takes you up onto the headland with great views over the ocean and surrounding region.
Forests, sinkholes and buttongrass on the Tarkine Drive
The forests in the Tarkine are dense, lush and green. It’s kind of incredulous that such an area is not protected as a national park, but it’s actually a ‘working forest’, meaning you pass through logged areas as well as ‘regenerated native forests’. In the forests, tall giants such as the eucalyptus regnans tower far above, beech and myrtle trees and man ferns form a thick green mid-layer, and the ground is carpeted with smaller ferns, moss and lichen. Keen-eyed fungi hunters will spot all sorts of little gems amongst the leaf litter. There are plenty of short and medium-length walks along the Tarkine drive, so the more time you have to explore and enjoy, the better.
I’ve seen plenty of photos of Trowatta Arch, but it’s one of those places that images just can’t fully capture the scale and feeling of actually being there. A walk through the forest leads to an arch over a collapsed sinkhole, filled with lurid green algae. This is the first of a number of sinkholes along the Tarkine Drive, and no doubt there’s many more hidden deep in the regenerated forests.
Milkshake Hills has a most appealing name, and was a great spot for morning tea (there are sheltered picnic tables and BBQs) before walking to the summit. Buttongrass covered undulating hills, with views of surrounding forests. We spotted wedged-tailed eagles in the distance.
Lake Chisholm is one of the largest sinkholes in the area, now filled with water to become a sizeable lake. We passed a fellow carrying a fishing rod, but he’d not had any luck. I really loved the walk through the forest, which was abundant with dark green fishbone ferns, and trees bearded with moss and lichen, like elders of the forest.
At Julius River picnic area, there are a number of walks. We opted to do the river walk, following a little stream through ferns and mossy trees. This was a very pleasant place to commune with nature, and we spotted a number of Bennett’s wallabies quietly observing us as we passed through their shady forest. There is a camping area for self-contained vans nearby, but unfortunately not suited for those like us whose mobile accommodation is of the tent variety. If not travelling in a campervan or camper trailer, the options are either backtracking to Smithton/Stanley or heading towards Arthur River. The latter for us, so as drizzle fell, we drove further west. First, a stop at Sumac Lookout, where the view is nice, but the wooden carved sign probably steals the show.
Accommodation: Arthur River holiday house.
Tarkine coast
The Tarkine coast is stunning and provides endless opportunities to stroll, beachcomb and explore. Jagged rocks encrusted with orange lichen, rockpools filled with abundant sea life, and birds like the sweet little hooded plover scuttling along the sand.
We based ourselves in Arthur River and spent the day exploring the various beaches along the coast. These beaches are all about the rocks. If the wind picks up, the wild swell of the waves would also make for some stunning seascapes. Each area we stopped at was slightly different, with its own charm and many reasons to disappear among the rocks with the camera in hand. Edge of the World at Arthur River and Sarah Anne Rocks further south have many jagged rocks. At Sundown Point/Nelson Bay the rocks were different again, and apparently there are some aboriginal rock carvings in this protected reserve, but we didn’t spot any (the reserve is over 10km long).
Green Point Beach at Marrawah was another highlight. At first it looked a little flat compared to some of the other rocky beaches. But at low tide, the water recedes to reveal fascinating little rockpools, like giant’s footprints, ripe for exploring. There is a camping area, sheltered picnic tables and even a playground here.
Further north lies the Cape Grim windfarm, which can be seen from Green Point Beach. We treated ourselves to lunch at the Marrawah pub, since treats out here are few and far between. The pub had a relaxed vibe, hearty meals and cold beer – what more do you need in life?
Accommodation: Arthur River
The Western Explorer road
Reluctantly we left our little west coast holiday house, and ventured along the remote Western Explorer road towards Corinna and Strahan. This is a gravel road through the wilderness – there are almost no signs of civilisation, other than the road itself. We passed a total of nine cars on this road, which more than we had expected.
The road passes through forests of tall trees, buttongrass plains, and reveals increasingly sizable mountains. Those with a well-equipped 4WD and some mates to help recover them from boggy situations, could have an absolute ball out here (the infamous Balfour Track comes off this road). There are a few lookouts along the way, and plenty of places to pull over, but the enjoyment comes from the drive itself, so slow down and soak it up.
We reached Corinna mid-afternoon, emerging from the dusty car to do the short Huon Pine walk along the peaceful Pieman River. The Huon Pines are wee babies (about 100 years old), nothing like the gallant giants that once would have been found in these forests before they were so veraciously cut down. The sweet cottages at Corinna had been booked out weeks ago, but we were able to get a spot in the small campground, so we pitched our tents among ferns by the river. We wandered along the White River walk in the evening, before dinner and a beer or two at the pub.
There are a number of other walks in and around Corinna, and you can rent kayaks or board the Arcadia II and cruise the Pieman river. We were content to soak up the serenity – the reflections in the water and river shrouded in morning mist were magic.
Accommodation: Camping at Corinna.
Strahan and Zeehan
From Corinna, we drove south to Zeehan. An interesting town with grand buildings reflecting its boom and bust history tied to the fleeting fortunes of mining. When we visited the area over 15 years ago, we dubbed Zeehan ‘tumbleweed town’ as our solitary car drove up the main street. At the moment there’s a bit more going on, with mining and mountain biking bringing more activity to the region. We checked out the Spray Tunnel, grabbed some pies for lunch and then made the most of sunny skies and drove out to nearby Trial Harbour for more beach play. Trial Harbour is another remote west coast community of holiday homes and shacks. A friendly local dog joined the kids playing on the sand, while I took photos of kelp and starfish.
Driving further south towards Strahan, a stop at Henty Dunes is highly recommended. The huge mountains of sand stretch for kilometres. The kids expended much energy sliding down and climbing back up one of the larger dunes. After one exhausting climb up, we adults were happy to sit and contemplate the scenery, or search for interesting photography compositions among the dunes.
We based ourselves in Strahan and treated ourselves to a Gordon River cruise, where we enjoyed fine food and even finer scenery. The boat travels out to the ocean briefly through the narrow Hells Gate channel, before turning around and making its way along Macquarie Harbour to the Gordon River. The reflections in the mirror-like waters were stunning, and the short walk at Heritage Landing was a pleasant opportunity to learn about the precious and diverse flora that is found in this world heritage area. We also thoroughly enjoyed the walk around the ruins on Sarah Island, where we learnt a bit about the convict history of this area.
Once back in Strahan, we took a short walk to Hogarth Falls. Later, we watched the sky turn orange as the sun dipped below the horizon.
Accommodation: Strahan
Montezuma falls and Tullah
After Strahan we headed north again to see one of Tasmania’s tallest waterfalls, Montezuma Falls. There are two ways to access the falls, but unless you have a well-equipped 4WD, the main access point is via a 10km walk along an old train line. The falls, even with limited water flowing, were very pretty as they cascaded down three tiers. They can be viewed from the base, or a different perspective gained from walking across the gorge on a wobbly swing bridge.
We based ourselves at Tullah Lakeside Lodge, a pretty spot by Lake Rosebery in the heart of Tasmania’s hydro-electric area. With typical west-coast weather bringing drizzle and rain, we opted for a chill day, skimming stones at nearby Lake Mackintosh and making the most of hot chocolate and scones at the lodge. I would have loved to climb the mighty Mt Murchison, but the weather was not in our favour for such an expedition this time around.
Accommodation: Tullah
Lyell Highway, Lake St Claire and the Southwest
The drive from Strahan to Hobart is so much more than a way to get between west and east. The Lyell Highway has many short walks and places to stop to explore this beautiful world heritage area.
Queenstown is a fascinating area, rich in minerals, and the 99-bends road out of the town is an experience in itself. We stopped at Horsetail Falls, which were flowing thanks to the rain from the previous day. Opposite, Iron Blow lookout reveals the blue pool at the base of an open cut mine surrounded by mountains.
On the Lyell Highway, Nelson Falls is a short walk and one of Tasmania’s prettiest. We also stopped at Donaghy’s Lookout, about a one hour return walk, with a stunning view of the Frenchman and his friends (Frenchman’s Cap). As the sun dipped low, we drove through buttongrass plains, basking in the golden hour glow.
We camped a rather chilly two nights at Leeawuleena (Lake St Clair). We spent the day walking to Shadow Lake, where vibrant snow gums shone, despite the drizzle. To warm up, in the evening we headed across the highway for a hearty meal at Derwent Bridge hotel.
Not far from Lake St Claire is the Wall in the Wilderness, an amazing artwork depicting some of the history of the region, carved into gorgeous golden wood panels. Absolutely worth visiting.
Beyond Derwent Bridge, the scenery becomes tamer. We passed a number of dams that form part of the hydro scheme, then drove through farmland as we followed the Derwent River towards New Norfolk. We based ourselves here for the night at the delightful and quirky Junction Motel. We then headed to Mt Field National Park and walked to Russell and Horseshoe Falls. The falls were only a trickle compared to the typical postcard shots. The usually vibrant mossy forests feeling the effects of a long dry summer and autumn.
It was beyond Mt Field that we again felt Lutruwita’s grandeur, as we headed towards Lake Pedder and Strathgordon. Thick forests, yellow buttongrass and wild, rocky mountain ranges. There are many walks in the area, and this area goes on the bucket list for future adventures. A delightful stroll through the mossy forest with abundant fungi at the Creepy Crawly Trail was a lot of fun. We then drove on to the end of the road, where Red Knoll Lookout provides a fantastic spot to view Lake (Fake) Pedder and surrounds. The wind was chilly and the views stunning. Reluctantly we hopped back into the dusty car and drove to our accommodation at Pedder Wilderness Lodge.
The following morning we took a look at the mighty feat of engineering that is the Gordon Dam wall. Despite feelings of vertigo, it was great fun to walk along the dam wall and coo-ee across the gorge.
On the way back towards civilisation, we walked to see the Twisted Sister – a tall tree that has spiraled around as it reached for the sky. We also stopped in at Mt Field again, nipping up to Lake Dobson, where the weather again closed in and treated us to the full alpine experience as we briskly walked around the Pandani Grove walk.
This marked the end of the ‘western wilds’ part of our trip. Refreshing, inspiring and, as always, beautiful.
