Settlers Track – Mountains Mud and Memories

Ngunnawal country
Namadgi National Park, ACT

A historic and scenic loop through southern Namadgi National Park. The walk starts at Bradshaws Homestead, set among green pastures. Later we would read that this tiny shack was once home to a sizeable family!

The track heads west, following grey marker posts with arrows – in January 2022, after a wet spring and summer, the track was not always obvious. The walk goes through snow grass and eucalypts, passing beneath Pheasant Hill, where a bench provides a pleasant spot for a rest. Westerman Homestead can be seen through the trees – our destination later in the walk.

On through pretty forest, then long overgrown grass. There is an option for a shorter 6km loop or to continue on the longer 9km loop to Waterhole Hut. At a fence not far from the hut, some big granite boulders provided another stopping point as the children scrambled and chambered around. I pottered on down to Grassy Creek to find a waterhole, where a robin flitted about catching insects.

Waterhole Hut appears to have been built on a swampy quagmire (or you could imagine this to be the moat, if you are 5 and pretending the hut is a castle.) This hut was used for working, rather than permanent living, and is much more basic, with a dirt floor, fireplace and remnants of an old bed. Nearby, the remains of stockyards are worth checking out.

We expected an easy walk to the final hut, as the track follows a fire trail. Recent rain meant it was rather boggy. However, we did have fun catching tadpoles and frogs in the large puddles that had formed in the ruts of the track.

We reached Westermans Hut for afternoon tea, sitting on the veranda and wondering how long until the ominous clouds broke. There is a gravesite nearby, telling of the challenges of remote living, a sheep dip, and remnants of a shady garden.

The walk back to Bradshaws Hut crosses a wooden foot bridge, then heads up over a hill, through forest and back to the car park.

The walk took us about 5 hours, including breaks for lunch, climbing and tadpole catching. We saw lots of wildflowers, tadpoles, a flock of black cockatoos and some eagles. It was a lovely day out, with pleasant scenery and lots of interesting things for the kids to explore.

The drive is about 1.5 hours from Canberra, on Boboyan Road, which is gravel and conditions can vary. It is generally 2WD accessible, but check road conditions first.

It’s also worth a stop at Hospital Hill lookout on the way for views over Orroral Valley.