The final leg of our long service leave trip saw us travelling around Scotland. This was the least planned part of our travels – we came with few pre-conceived plans and intended to take each day as it came.
On the Bonnie Banks – Loch Lomond
After two days in Edinburgh recuperating and doing a bit of sightseeing, we headed west towards Loch Lomond and the Trossachs. This was a pleasant spot to start our Scottish adventure. The weather was on the damp side, but we enjoyed a scenic drives around the lochs and forests. Plenty of opportunities for short strolls when the rain let up, and we enjoyed making bark boats beneath oak trees by the waters’ edge.
Our base was Crianlarich youth hostel, one of many top quality accommodations run by Hostelling Scotland.
The Falls of Dochart, which are more rapids rather than a waterfall, were flowing like crazy after a significant amount of rain had fallen in the area. The village of Killin was full of travellers stopping to take a look at the powerful flow, as it gushed under the lovely old stone bridge. With more rain forecast for the area, and the rivers already swollen, we consulted the weather app and decided to head east and away from the downpour. We drove along narrow roads by Loch Tay, passed through the pretty area of Glenlyon with oak lined estates, rolled the windows down and breathed in fresh country air. It felt good to be in Scotland.
The Cairngorms
The Cairngorms National Park is a mountainous area, surrounded by idyllic farmland, woodlands and rivers, not to mention plenty of nearby whiskey distilleries. We spent time around Tomintoul to the north, Aviemore to the west and Braemar to the East of the Cairngorms. Each area with a different charm.
In Tomintoul, we enjoyed an afternoon ramble through a pine forest with a fantastic outdoor playground, then past farmland, the green fields bathed in golden afternoon light. In the village we ate local ice cream and browsed the shelves of the Whiskey Castle. We had the Smugglers Hostel almost all to ourselves, able to make the most of the living area and feel at home.
The Spey River runs through the area and its water is used by many distilleries for making the fine wee drop of single malt whiskey. We called in at Glenlivet Distillery, which has a good display and information about the whiskey making process, the estate’s history and a lounge area where we were able to enjoy some coffee and sweet treats (or a whiskey if not driving). We left with a nice wee drop of their 15-year-old single malt to enjoy during our travels.
Aviemore is the gateway town to the Cairngorms, a bigger town with plenty of facilities and accommodation options. From Aviemore, we drove up to the Cairngorms ski area, situated on the tree-less slopes. We had a taste of the bitter cold as we walked part-way up one of the peaks before deciding there was not much point in pressing on for a view that had disappeared.
Back down the mountain at Glenmore Forest Park the weather was more conducive to being outdoors, and we enjoyed playing among the pines on the sandy shores of Loch Morlich. Our stay in the hostel here was delightful – a renovated mountain chalet with a number of reading rooms and a good selection of DVDs.
The drive to the east of the Cairngorms, passing through the northern ski-fields, was most scenic. We were able to visit Balmoral Castle, which is open to the public on selected days of the year when not in use by the royal family. It was quite enjoyable to wander around the grounds by the river Dee.
Nearby Braemar is another picturesque village – home of the highland games. After a wander through the games museum, we took a drive through the countryside to the pretty Lin of Dee. The river passes through a small rocky gorge, and a walk along the river provides mountain views through the groves of Scots pine.
Aberdeenshire
Continuing our efforts to escape the rain, we spent a few days on the outskirts of Aberdeen. We explored along the coastline, enjoying a little sunshine and time to chill. South of Aberdeen near Stonehaven we found a reserve run by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, where pale cliffs drop into the clear blue ocean. We watched rabbits hopping, dolphins swimming and birds soaring. A lone kayaker passing by in the smooth water far below.
We gave Donnottar Castle a miss as the crowds were a bit much, though it did look like a lovely castle sitting atop a headland. Instead we headed north of Aberdeen to the ruins of Slains Castle, also perched by the ocean. This is not a managed tourist site, and it was fun to have the freedom to wander around the ruins looking for signs of vampires, with ravens cawing overhead.
Leaving Aberdeen, we visited Elgin Cathedral, which was quite lovely – partially in ruin, but complete enough that you could climb the spiral stairs to the top of one of the towers and survey the township. To the north of Elgin we found a hidden beach where we explored among golden sandstone, rocky shores and clear water. The locals urged us to take to the water, but we were not convinced by the fact that they were putting on very thick coats and pouring a steaming drink from a thermos after their quick dip.
In the lands of the Loch Ness monster
Let’s be honest, if you visit Scotland, you want to catch a glimpse of Loch Ness and scour the water for signs of something mysterious. We arrived by Loch Ness on another grey day, and saw no sign of any monster.
Having seen the famed loch, and staying close to the tourist route in the village of Drumnadrochit, we actually spent our time mostly away from Loch Ness. We headed to nearby Glen Affric, an incredibly pretty area where I could imagine taking to the hills with my hiking pack. The drive passes rivers and lochs, before arriving at a reserve where you can walk among golden hills. The bracken ferns turning a russet brown in the early Autumn, and Scots pines shaped by the forces of nature to be twisted and contorted with individuality, against a backdrop of blue mountains.
We also stopped at Plodda Falls, a 40 metre waterfall that drops into a pine forest valley below. Challenging to photograph, but a very pretty spot.
We didn’t visit Nessie Land, nor did we shell out for a monster hunting cruise on the loch or visit the pretty Urquhart castle. The latter would have been nice, but with a month in Scotland we figured there would be no shortage of lochs or castles to see, and our preference was to enjoy these without the busloads of tourists. While the rain fell we drove along the Great Glen, past the four lochs that follow a very distinct fault line between Inverness and Fort William (Loch Ness, Loch Oich, Loch Lochy and Loch Linnhe). Between the mist we spied a brief view of Ben Nevis, Scotland’s highest peak, as we approached Fort William.
The NC 500
The drive around the northern highlands is named the North Coast 500 (NC 500) and promises yet more amazing Scottish scenery. North of Inverness, the drive crosses the Cromarty Firth and starts wending around the northern peninsula. We paused in the village of Tain for morning tea from a local bakery, and then also stopped in Helmsdale for a lunch of crepes in a community run café. I was reminded of the sort of little villages common on BBC shows. We then detoured off the NC500 route, heading across the inland moors towards Kyle of Tongue, our destination for a couple of nights. I enjoyed the scenery on the drive through peaty, heather covered moors, a few trees, occasional crofts, and locals fishing in the streams. Single track roads, sheep and virtually no other tourists.
In Kyle of Tongue, a lovely guest house hostel awaited, where we could look out from bay windows across the water. On the grounds below, campers braved the soggy conditions, but everyone seemed in good spirits. We were impressed at the gumboots provided for use by the campers – a most thoughtful touch. We also enjoyed the chatter of the three elderly ladies staying at the hostel, reminiscing of time spent in the area years ago when they had the youthful vim for climbing the nearby peaks of Ben Loyal and Ben Hope.
There’s no shortage of scenery in the north. Little bays and coves, watched over by majestic mountains. Whitewashed cottages dot the landscape, and these little communities have a peaceful sense of a time that has long gone in many other corners of the globe. It was a perfect place for a bit of beach time, playing on the sand and exploring among the rocks and the skeletal remains of on old fishing boat.
Further west, on our way to see Smoo cave, we came across a delightfully pink hued beach that demanded some more beach time. The colour is due to the rocks that surround the beach, which are Lewisian gneiss (pronounced ‘nice’). There were lots of little nooks and crannies to explore, and I enjoyed clambering around for different views of the vast expanse of peach sand and turquoise water.
Tearing ourselves away from the delights of the gneiss beach, we made our way to Smoo cave near Durness. The cave sits at the end of an inlet, and a waterfall tumbles into the cave in a very impressive display. We equally enjoyed wandering around the inlet at low tide, noticing the variety of seaweeds and searching for interesting rocks. I dubbed the tower of rocks on one side of the inlet as the ‘wedding cake’ since it was a rounded pillar shape that had many distinct layers of sedimentary rocks. Occasionally a figure or two would appear on the top like little figurines surveying the view.
A very important aside: when visiting Smoo Cave, we would highly recommend the food van that sells toasted sandwiches. An incredibly generous helping of three different cheeses and other toppings of your choice (red onion was lovely), thick bread toasted to perfection and finished with a sprinkle of sea salt. Mmm mmm.
Driving once again through the middle of the northern highlands, a landscape wild and remote. We were headed to our next base in Ullapool, where the ferries leave for the Isle of Lewis. By the standards of the northern highlands, Ullapool is a town with a bit of bustle (at least when the ferries are due). Our hostel was on the main street, overlooking the harbour where sailing and fishing boats were moored, surrounded by yet more lovely mountains.
North of Ullapool is the Assynt – the name itself just sounds poetic and exciting. The ruins of Ardvrek Castle on a small island in the midst of Loch Assynt, winds whipping waves on its shore. Further along the lake, little islets sported a few trees standing in the mist and rain. We followed narrow winding roads up and over mountains, giving way to sheep nonchalantly wandering along the middle of the road. Morning tea at Driftwood Café in Lochinver. Then on to the windswept Clachtoll beach where we played among rocks and waving green grass growing on the dunes. Further north, Stoer lighthouse – another place at which to stretch our legs and brace against the highland breeze.
Exploring these places is best done slowly. The distances are not great, but the driving requires care – those who do so are rewarded by friendly smiles and waves from the locals as you give way on one of the many turn-out bays on these single track roads.
South of Ullapool, we made our way to Gairloch Sands – yet another top hostel, a grand old building away from it all with views out over the Minch. No shortages of beaches, mountains and lochs to explore in the area.
Continuing south towards Torridon, one of my favourite areas, with fascinating ancient geology. There are plenty of spots for quiet picnicking or more strenuous hill walking around Loch Maree and the Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve. We enjoyed a shorter walk part way up one of the mountains, learning about the plants and geology, and pausing for a pleasant view of Loch Maree. Another good short walk nearby takes in the pretty Victoria Falls.
From Kinlochewe, on the banks of Loch Maree, to the little hamlet of Torridon, the road follows a glacial carved valley between the tall silver mountains. Many places to walk or simply stop and take in the clear air and amazing views. In Torridon, yet again we were in a top class hostel, filled with Scots who were busy bagging Munros, for which there are no shortage in the area.
While we did our own bit of mountain climbing, making it part of the way up Beinn Alligin, we spent much of our time in the Torridon area exploring the single track roads that climb over mountain passes to explore the lochs and villages beyond. The road north from Torridon was one such lovely pass, ending at the little hamlet of Lower Diabeg by a bay, where we spent most of the day just relaxing in the sun and playing among the rocks. No commerce and tourist gimmicks. The one restaurant was closed, and we were quite happy to make do with the simple fare that we had with us and a cuppa from the thermos. Funny how sometimes the simplest days travelling are the days that that remain etched the strongest in our memory.
The jewel in the crown of Torridon area, when it comes to scenic drives, is the drive around the Applecross peninsula over the Bealach na Bà (‘the route of the cattle’). The pass crosses high in the mountains, with white mist and fog surrounding us on our drive. Narrow, single track – no place for large camper vans, those with bad vertigo, or the impatient hurried driver. A majestic stag stood only metres from the road at one point (another reason to drive slowly). At the top of the pass a lookout provides views of the rocky peaks shrouded in mist, and the switchbacks of the road as it descends 600 metres to the port below. What a drive!
Island time – Skye and the Outer Hebrides
It would be easy to make the mistake of thinking that you can see a lot of Scotland in a short period. Apart from the fact that driving on single-track roads in the highland can be slow-going, ideally the traveller also allows time to explore some of the numerous islands. We only had time for a few, so all the more reason to return one day.
The Isle of Skye is another of those places that just invokes a sense of beauty and otherworldliness. Images of the Quiraing, the Old Man of Storr and the dark Cuillin Hills are iconic for a good reason. However, all this adds up to Skye being the third most popular tourist destination, and this brings both pros and cons. One of the cons is that accommodation is at a premium. This was the only place where we didn’t have such a great hostel experience. The crowd in Portree was different – the more self-centred youthful tourists rather than our lovely hill walkers that we’d rubbed shoulders with at most of the other hostels.
However, Skye is undeniably beautiful. The Quiraing is as spectacular as the pictures, the Old Man of Storr is also pretty cool for a phallic rock standing like a sentinel. Dunvegan Castle was well worth visiting, both for wandering around the lovely gardens, as well as seeing the relics belonging to the MacDonald clan on display inside. The Kilted waterfall was another lovely sight, and the small but impressive Staffin Dinosaur museum great for little paleontologists to get inspired.
In the south of Skye we made our way to Talisker bay. This highlighted one of the down-sides of the rapid expansion of tourism (and the impact of Insta-tourism) on Skye. Talisker Bay is a lovely black sand bay, where an intermittent waterfall flows over cliffs (or drifts off into the air if the wind is strong). However, the road to get to it is narrow, single track, full of potholes, and parking is incredibly limited (more than 6 cars would be pushing it). At the end of the road are a number of properties that have had to put up traffic cones and abrupt signage pleading with people not to park at the entrances to their properties, which need to be kept clear for access by farm vehicles. The other aspect of visiting this spot that made me feel rather conflicted is that the walk to the bay goes literally through the backyard of one of the properties. I realise the public right of way rules in the UK that are very different to our tolerances of such things in Australia, but I felt uncomfortably intrusive wandering through other people’s lives.
After a couple of days in Skye, we boarded the CalMac ferry to the Outer Hebrides, where we spent a couple of days on the Isles of Harris and Lewis. While this is a single land-mass, the two Isles are actually quite distinct. Harris, to the south, is mountainous, with deep lochs, little bays, and rocky peaks hidden amongst mist. As you travel north into the Isle of Lewis, the land flattens out, its bare peated moors dotted with lochans and lots of historical sites of interest. We stayed at a little community-run hostel by a loch in Lewis, where it was clear that the island community values trust and honesty.
Lewis is home of the Callanish standing stones, set overlooking a grey loch and feeling very mysterious. There are five separate sites, the main one that has most of the stones still standing, while others consist of one a few stones standing in paddocks. Even more amazing the Dun Carloway Broch – an ancient stone circular hut, over 10 metres tall, double walled and still in amazing condition despite the a passage of over two thousand years. It was eye opening to us to come across this site, entry by donation only, and no tourist fanfare. We also enjoyed stopping at the Norse stone kiln and mill with its thatched roof – a replica of the original, but very interesting. And of course, we had to travel to the lighthouse at the far northern tip of the island – for no other reason than the name – ‘the Butt of Lewis’. It was fun to watch the waves pound the cliffs, erupting in splashes of white foam.
Another important aside: ‘Crust like that’ is the place to get pizza. Served from a shipping container in a paddock about 15 minutes out of Stornaway, the cleverly named pizzas (‘straight outta Stornaway’, ‘the crofter’, ‘standing shroom only’) were a real treat. We nearly missed out, as orders need to be placed online in advance and sell out quickly. The next day we got our order in as soon as bookings opened for the evening. Google reviews is full of 5 star reviews, and rightly so – the only negative review was from a disappointed person that had missed out.
Exploring Harris was equally enthralling, even if the weather was (once again) grey, cold and windy. We drove along ‘the golden road’, past little cottages and crofts, built on the limited available land between rocky peaks, lochans and the ocean. The jewel of Harris’ crown is Luskentyre Beach, where blue waters reach white sands, beneath the line of mountains across the bay. Like a scene from a tropical island paradise. Only the bitter wind belied this image. At least the sun had come out, and it was relatively pleasant to wander along the dunes and scamper around the rocky hillside by the bay.
Too soon it was time to leave the islands. An early morning drive through the mist to board the CalMac ferry again. Unusually the ferry was going via the southern Outer Hebrides, so we got a glimpse of the island of Uist. It looked mysterious, moody and interesting with its rocky headlands – similar to the scenery around Harris. I’ll add the Hebridean Way walking track to my list of reasons to return to Scotland.
Final days – Glenfinnian, Kinlochleven and Glencoe
Back on the Scottish mainland (once we had driven through Skye and over the Skye bridge). The days to the end of our trip were now limited and we had to wend our way south. Still, we had some of the best of Scottish scenery to pass through.
We made our way to Kinlochleven, a little village at the end of a long loch, surrounded by tall mountains. A stop for those on the West Highland Way walking track, either before or after tackling the devil’s staircase. (Yes, another one for my walking bucket list). The scenery around the area is divine. The mountains have rainbows of colour – deep burgundy, burnished gold, green and blue, all caressed by pockets of mist suspended in the cool air.
We also made time to visit the Glenfinnan viaduct with its 21 arches. When we first arrived, the car park was full, so we had to continue on. The village is tiny, and any available parking spaces were also taken, so we drove further along the road towards Mallaig, eventually finding a spot by the road to pause for a break, and climb a track up a steep hill to enjoy the glorious scenery. We noted another group on the hill, looking rather well-dressed and gazing intently in the direction of Glenfinnan – we guessed the Jacobite steam train must be due (and hence the car park crowds). Eventually our well-dressed neighbours gave up – there had been massive downpours and flooding in recent days, disrupting the railways and closing roads. However, as we hung around enjoying the scenery, eventually a distinctive white puff appeared in the distance, and soon the Jacobite train was making its way down the valley and passing right underneath our vantage point, before chugging off into the distance towards Hogwarts. We wished Harry Potter and his friends the best and went to check out the viaduct as the crowds dispersed.
On to the Glencoe area, where mountains touch the skies and little white cottages sit in misty valleys. This most beautiful area belies its tragic and brutal history, with massacres and violent acts in the distant past when clan rivalry saw blood shed throughout the highlands. I confess that I am no history buff, but one of the things about travelling is that it opens up new realms of interest, and on return I have found myself gravitating to books about Scotland, learning more about its geology and history.
We eventually found ourselves back in Crianlarich, the first hostel we’d stayed in a few weeks before. Coming full circle.
Dumfries and Galloway – our last hurrah
We had just enough time to squeeze in a night or two in the Dumfries and Galloway regions, south of Glasgow and Edinburgh. Green, so very green. We enjoyed driving through woodlands, green hills and lush farmland with cows and sheep. Driving through the Galloway forest park, a little red fox dashed across the road, stopping to turn and survey us before darting into the undergrowth. In Australia this animal is a pest, but in their homeland, children and adults alike ‘squeed’ with delight at the cute little fellow.
In the Dumfries region we enjoyed the walk to Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall and up into the windswept mountains and Loch Skeen above. We passed many walkers and their canine companions strolling through the hills. Unlike in Australia where dogs are not commonly seen on the trails since they are prohibited in national parks and on many beaches, dogs are a common companion for the Scots. Big dogs, small dogs and happy owners all out and about saying ‘hiya’ as we all breathed the fresh air.
One last castle visit was to Caerlaveroch castle, which sits in green parkland surrounded by a moat. We also managed to stop at one last whiskey distillery on our way to the border, as we needed a stop and just happened to be driving past Annandale Distillery. Shame we didn’t have time for the tour, since they were welcoming of kids. We bought a small bottle of their Rascally Liquor (white liquor distilled in the same way as whiskey, but not aged – also known as ‘moonshine’). A little something for our final night after a long drive down the motorway through the UK.
Our holiday was at an end. We were soon dropping our van in London and leaving from Heathrow airport on the long, long haul home to Australia.
Oh Scotland, you have my heart. To wander once again through those heather clad hills, get lost amongst the pines, and seek out the finest wee drop of single malt. I don’t know what it is about these misty, grey mountainous parts of the world, but I feel so alive breathing that cool fresh mountain air, or sitting on deserted windswept beaches letting the sound of the ocean sooth all worries and concerns.
More information
We primarily stayed in hostels run by Hostelling Scotland and affiliates. In the shoulder season (September/October) we had no trouble booking at short notice, usually able to get a private room. We were very impressed with the facilities, and particularly with the locations of the hostels – often in very scenic locations right in the heart of the beautiful highlands.
See CalMac ferries for timetables and information about visiting the various islands.
