One of my favourite outdoor playgrounds is Mt Buffalo, or Bogamble as it was named by the first nations people. A great, granite covered mound, rising above the nearby towns of Bright and surrounds, it is a place of beauty and peacefulness. I recently spent a glorious two days on a mini-break, wandering around the trails, taking photographs, and enjoying solitude among granite and gum trees.
I arrived late morning, and set up my tent at my allocated spot at the ever-popular Lake Catani campsite. I’d only managed to secure one night, as this was a last minute decision and the campground is often booked well in advance on weekends and during holiday periods. Once all set up, my first foray was circumnavigating Lake Catani. The weather was cool and moody, and the branches of gums shone ghost-like through the mist. The reedy grass surrounding the lake was a russet orange, contrasting nicely against the cool blues, greens and greys.
Next I ascended further up the mountain, parking at Cresta Valley – a lone car in the car park. I waved to the rangers working nearby as I headed down the trail to Dicksons Falls. Everything was grey and gloomy in the most beautiful way. Ironically, down the mountain in the town of Bright an Autumn festival was kicking off, celebrating colour. And here I was, looking for photo compositions among muted tones of brown alpine grass, gritty grey rocks, and the charred and twisted branches of trees razed by past bushfires.
Dicksons Falls topple over the edge of the plateau, and this day they disappeared into ethereal mist. On a fine day, the view would reveal the peaks and ridgelines of the Victorian Alps. However, I saw only fleeting glimpses of blue from the mountains before the cool, white mist concealed everything once more.
As I wandered back towards the car, the mist cleared, revealing the distinct peak of Mt Buffalo’s Horn. I then took a drive up to the carpark at the Horn, but as the track to the top was closed and the clouds and mist were not showing much promise of a sunset, I decided instead to head back and check out the Cathedral.
The Cathedral is a big monument of granite rocks, towering above the track, evidently reminding someone of a place of worship. I climbed up into the mist, and enjoyed the moody shape of the rocks looming above. Continuing the ascent, I emerged to a rather windy summit where I sat and looked out into the abyss of mist and cloud. Occasionally it looked like the mist might clear and momentarily reveal the last of the day’s light. However, it was not to be, and the sun slipped quietly away. A pair of robins hopped around on the boulders as I contemplated the day’s end. With the light fading, it was time to carefully head back down, and settle into my tent for the night.
My second day of Buffalo Wandering started with a dawn viewing from The Gorge. Not a sole around, I found a vantage point to look out over the clouds, the surrounding peaks like little islands among the fluffy blanket of white. The sun was shyly trying to peak over the horizon, but after a brief distant glow, the clouds called curtains on the sunrise before it really began. It didn’t matter, as just standing above the gorge, feeling the breeze, noticing delicate flowers and hearing the sounds of the bush awakening was a delight.
Once finished at my dawn vantage point, I decided to walk the rest of the Gorge Heritage Walk. A fellow photographer joined me on the lookout platform above Crystal Brook Falls before I continued on my way. A pleasant little walk, with a good view of the Chalet, as well as another lookout providing further views of the islands in clouds, as well as back towards the Falls. I enjoyed noticing the way drops of the rain that had fallen overnight had settled on fallen leaves, where they lay on the soft alpine grass. Once back at the car park, I enjoyed a late breakfast and hot cuppa from my trusty thermos.
Next it was time to chase some waterfalls, starting with Rollasons Falls. The walk descends from the carpark through shady forest, before splitting into two tracks to the upper and lower falls. It was getting busy on the trail, being a weekend (and in stark contrast to the pleasant solitude the previous day), and as a large group headed to the upper falls, I strategically took the path to the lower falls first, hoping it might be a little quieter (which it was). I’d not been to these falls before, and it is a lovely place as the falls elegantly plunge down two tiers into a green pool below. Luscious green ferns, and little maidenhair ferns grew all around, like an Australian garden of Eden.
After exploring around upper Rollasons Falls, I headed back to the car and drove further down the mountain to one of my favourite places, Ladies Bath Falls. ‘The Lady’ was looking glorious with the gentle diffused sunlight kissing her waters. Despite the crowds taking in her beauty, I was able to rock hop across and find a nice little vantage point for a few photos. Further along the path is Eurobin Falls, where white streaks of water snake down the mountain’s flat granite walls.
Time for lunch, and I was keen for some more exploring, so headed back up the mountain and turned down the gravel Reservoir Road. At the road end, a lone picnic table sat above a little stream. A good spot away from the weekend crowds. I watched a young couple attempting to pack their gear into packs, as they headed off to one of the remote camping areas. I packed up my modest lunch supplies and headed off down the trail to Mt Dunn.
I enjoyed the walk, noticing a few little alpine flowers, and small tarns where little green and red plants looked like galaxies of stars beneath the clear water. The climb to the summit involved a ladder to get up to the top of an exposed granite peak. The surrounding views revealed other outcrops of granite interspersed with patches of trees, including many grey skeletons of trees once destroyed by fires. In alpine areas, the regeneration of the bush is slow, and can take many, many years. Still, the desolate grey skeleton trees are somewhat poetic, and I find I am drawn to them as I look for possible subjects for photographs.
My final walk, as my time on the mountain drew to an end, was to head up le Souef Plateau Track to catch the afternoon light on the Sentinel. This is another of my favourite areas on the mountain, with lots of cool little granite outcrops and great views. Mahomets Tomb is fun for clambering around and squeezing through a play-gym of granite. The Sentinel stands proudly on the Buffalo’s back, it’s western flank gradually lighting up with the day’s final golden light. So, as the sun dipped below the horizon and the temperature dropped, it was time for me to also descend from this magnificent and sacred mountain.
For more information about Mt Buffalo, including walks and campground booking: Parks Victoria
For information on Bright and surrounding towns, including accommodation options: Visit Bright
If you’re in Bright, drop into Alpine Light Gallery, run by the amazingly talented photographers Mieke Boynton and Matt Palmer.
