Nuenonne country
A spontaneous trip to Lunawanna-allonah / Bruny Island for a few nights was yet another delightful highlight of our Lutruwita / Tasmania road trip.
We were exploring the southern part of Tasmania when the weather took a decidedly chilly turn. We decided that heading to Bruny would be a better option than risking hypothermia up in the Hartz Mountains. So we wound our way along the road to Kettering, stopping for crisp Huon Valley apples and bakery treats on our way, which we ate at Egg and Bacon Bay.
I’d only ever been to Bruny in peak summer holidays, so it was nice to arrive at the ferry terminal to find the queue was short and we virtually drove straight onto the car ferry. Across the D’Encasteaux Channel and our mini-adventure on the island off an island began.
First stop was some honey tasting and ice cream at Bruny Island honey. My favourite was the fennel honey, a rich treacle flavour with a delicious tone of anniseed. We then stopped for views at Truganini Lookout, over the Neck – that thin isthmus that separates north and south Bruny. Blue skies, blue water and a long stretch of golden sand.
We then high-tailed to Adventure Bay to do the Fluted Cape walk before the day got away on us. It’s one of the 60 Short Walks, is around 4 kms and took us about 2.5 leisurely hours. The walk begins along the bay before heading inland and uphill (if walking anti-clockwise). At the top of the climb we came to a steep cliff above the fluted dolerite columns. We had views back across the Neck and could see Kunanyi (Mt Wellington) shrouded in cloud (and probably snow) in the distance. The aqua waters below had a golden glow from the late afternoon sun. Interesting dolerite columns stood like sentinels at various points, and I had to keep a close eye on the kids near the edges.
On the descent, views between the she-oaks revealed the orange columns of fluted cape in their full splendor. At the base of the cliffs was a rocky cove where we sat and watched the waves thundering in. Coastal heath and tall gums, the setting sun and a few boats moored in the bay making an idyllic picture of this peaceful place.
We set up our camp at the Neck Beach campground. It’s a central and functional spot, though my pick for a longer stay would be Jetty Beach in the south.
Our second day on Bruny Island was spent exploring South Bruny national park. We packed our bags for a longer 18km ‘Short Walk’ on the Labillardiere Peninsula. It was a delightful day, and we passed only four people the whole day – a solo walker and a family that pulled their boat into one of the bays. Pretty amazing considering it was school holidays.
The walk begins by following management trails through bracken fern and banksia. Across the channel we could see moody clouds hovering over the mountains, and were glad we were on the relatively mild coast. A cove covered in rounded rocks was a good place to stop and contemplate the views, waves pounding the rocks.
A bit of an uphill slog through a gorgeous paperbark forest, though there were limited views from the summit itself. The descent took us down to a secluded cove, where we found a makeshift bench set up in the shade, a perfect spot for lunch. We poked around the rocks finding kelp, pig face and orange lichen. We spotted hooded plovers, one of my favourite birds, scuttling along the sand.
The walk then skirts around the headland, through heath plants and along bays. The clear water caressing the fine white sand, dotted with kelp, shells and other little treasures of the sea. It was slow going, not because it was difficult terrain, but because we were having fun beach-combing and taking photos. And that’s sort of the point – to slow down and connect with nature.
The return walk took us through strands of tall trees including majestic blue gums, with colourful bark standing proud in the afternoon sunlight. Clouds were darkening, but light shining through catching the trunks of trees and lighting the granite boulders along the bays made for some gorgeous scenes. The final section of the walk stretched on, through scratchy bracken ferns and limited views. Eventually we came to a bay where gum trees bent over the sand, and the track headed up towards the campsite and car park. A delightful walk and great way to spend a day on Bruny, away from the more touristy spots.
As the sun dipped lower, we headed up to the lighthouse to watch the sunset. The children had fun posing photos with their toys trying to climb into the lighthouse. I gazed over the ocean and felt immense peace.
As the light fell, we returned slowly along the gravel road, watching for wildlife, to our little campsite.
In the morning, we packed up our things before some play on the sand. The sun was out, a few people were swimming and paddle-boarding. The long stretch of sand broken only by a few footprints stretching out in both directions.
Our drive back to the ferry terminal was leisurely. Firstly we stopped at Bruny Island chocolate because the kids would never have forgiven me if we missed that one. Then it was cheese tasting and coffee in the delightful outdoor seating area at Bruny Island Cheese Co. For a decadent treat, I highly recommend the baked Otto, a delicious soft oozy cheese, wrapped in prosciutto. Nom, nom! Finally, the kids were curious to try oysters, so we stopped at the fantastically named ‘Get Shucked’, where I ate the bulk of a half dozen oysters kilpatrick, as they were not to the taste of the young ones.
Still in no hurry, we detoured via a scenic drive around north Bruny. Fantastic views and some nice little bays and beaches. While the kids would happily have played in the sand again, I decided our time on Bruny was coming to an end, so we farewelled the laid back place and made our way back to the ferry terminal. The Walls of Jerusalem were calling – but that’s one for another day.
